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[LeeRR]

The ground is white/brown

Think the output is actually yellow and purple Jan.

The sensor NEEDS to be facing down too.

[Jan]

(03-04-2012 02:54 PM)LeeRR Wrote:  The ground is white/brown

Think the output is actually yellow and purple Jan.

The sensor NEEDS to be facing down too.

this is on the MAP sensor not the stock wiring

[Shanne]

(03-04-2012 02:22 PM)LeeRR Wrote:  Guys

ECU is very easy to work with. There is a pin out diagram in the manual also.

All I will say is - there is a glitch with the TPS calibration. Once started after first TPS calibration, it will hunt for an idle.
Shut it down - key out, and restart. It'll idle as normal then.

I have got wideband configured now (pin 9) which uses the YELLOW wire on the OEM o2 sensor adapter. You will need to earth your sensor, but many locations available.

Also - the fan configuration is wrong.

It needs to be : Aux Input 6 - NOT Aux Input 4.

You need to set the water temp to activate on etc etc

You should always ground your sensor, best place is to the block, away from all other sensors and or grounds.

As long as the cam isnt huge it should idle just fine without needing to tweak very much....well idle well enough to get to a tuner....if not bump your idle speed a little to get to your tuner.

The water temp to activate is going to be for a rotrex car, not a M45 car.

Just thought I would throw some of that stuff out there.

[HRM]

For what it is worth, I read in the manual of the innovate gauge that the ground for the gauge is best shared with the ground for the ECU, or readings can vary.. I realize we are talking about the ECU, but planning ahead may come into play and the reason for my post.

From the install instructions for those planning on installing a wideband...

The BEST grounding scheme is all grounds (i.e., ECU, Gauges, LC1 heater, LC1
system, etc.) SOLDERED into a single lug and bolted to the engine block.
2. The next best is all grounds attached to the same source, as close as possible, but on
separate lugs. This is because even the corrosion between lugs can create ground
offset and noise. Incidentally, this is why many ECUs have separate ground wires for
injectors vs. ECU system ground- separating high voltages and low voltages reduces
noise.
3. Grounding to the engine block is usually better than grounding to the frame.
4. Grounding a gauge to the radio is usually bad- ground offset can vary with volume.
5. Grounding to an ECU housing is generally not optimal- housings are strapped to the
frame for shielding, but not necessarily grounded.
6. One of the WORST things to do is to ground most of your electronics to one place (i.e.
the engine block), but ground one device somewhere else (i.e., the frame). Not only can
this result in ground offsets, it can also create a “path of least resistance” for high
currents THROUGH a low-current device. This can result in melted wires and vaporized
diodes, when, for example, starter currents flow through gauges.

[Shanne]

(03-04-2012 04:10 PM)HRM Wrote:  For what it is worth, I read in the manual of the innovate gauge that the ground for the gauge is best shared with the ground for the ECU, or readings can vary.. I realize we are talking about the ECU, but planning ahead may come into play and the reason for my post.

From the install instructions for those planning on installing a wideband...

The BEST grounding scheme is all grounds (i.e., ECU, Gauges, LC1 heater, LC1
system, etc.) SOLDERED into a single lug and bolted to the engine block.
2. The next best is all grounds attached to the same source, as close as possible, but on
separate lugs. This is because even the corrosion between lugs can create ground
offset and noise. Incidentally, this is why many ECUs have separate ground wires for
injectors vs. ECU system ground- separating high voltages and low voltages reduces
noise.
3. Grounding to the engine block is usually better than grounding to the frame.
4. Grounding a gauge to the radio is usually bad- ground offset can vary with volume.
5. Grounding to an ECU housing is generally not optimal- housings are strapped to the
frame for shielding, but not necessarily grounded.
6. One of the WORST things to do is to ground most of your electronics to one place (i.e.
the engine block), but ground one device somewhere else (i.e., the frame). Not only can
this result in ground offsets, it can also create a “path of least resistance” for high
currents THROUGH a low-current device. This can result in melted wires and vaporized
diodes, when, for example, starter currents flow through gauges.

Yeah I've hook them up how they say too, and it just gives bad counts. I hook one ground to the block and one ground only that is the wideband. Then I ground the head, block, tranny, valvecover(headagain) and intake mani. I have never had a bad reading this way. I take grounds very serious. lol.

[Jan]

OK.............the connectors are in for the AUX. wiring.............
get your emails to me and your paypals......

I also have CAN connectors for the DASH type systems, AIM etc that plug in

[Mendra72]

Jan - you should have that check for the parts and the connector in your possession today or tomorrow.

(03-06-2012 08:37 PM)Jan Wrote:  OK.............the connectors are in for the AUX. wiring.............
get your emails to me and your paypals......

I also have CAN connectors for the DASH type systems, AIM etc that plug in

[scraggles]

(03-06-2012 08:37 PM)Jan Wrote:  OK.............the connectors are in for the AUX. wiring.............
get your emails to me and your paypals......

I also have CAN connectors for the DASH type systems, AIM etc that plug in

Good stuff. Can we see a picture of the cable and how many/what connectors it needs?

[LeeRR]

Jan

Can the AIM dash etc interrogate the VIPEC?

Thinking of things like getting MAP / IAT / etc reading on the dash?

[jcw2006aus]

(02-28-2012 06:51 PM)Jan Wrote:  who here hasn't received their shipping info?

Can I say me??