High Performance Fuel Pump Group buy

[Penis]

Have you noticed any whine from the pump?
To me the Aeromotive and Walbro pumps sound great, but not everybody sees it that way.


I'm a DICK! Dont like it? Skip this post!

[scoopieb]

I'm gonna want a filter. Wouldn't it make sense to change it while in there? Mines got 74k but I cant imagine not changing while there, unless they're super $$$ or something.

[ColinGreene]

Dick, Nah not really. Its a different sound for sure but nothing i really notice a ton outside of just getting in and turning the key on the prime cycle. once the motor is running i cant hear it at all.
That said, I do have a full rear interior because street car named slow.

[bizzy]

In, but you knew this already.

[ColinGreene]

Here is a short how to on how to do the fuel pump.
This is what you will start with, i shop vac'ed mine to make it clean. since i hate dirt.





When you go to remove it turn it clockwise 180* then carefully reach into the tank and remove the gray tube from the fuel cannister as well as the level sender wires thats black and blue, as well as the quick disconnect to the fuel pump on the flex hose.
carefully pull the whole assembly up and out, be careful as this will be full of fuel. make sure to work around the float arm thats on the back of the cannister, this should make the assembly easy enough to pull the part completely out.
i have a bucket handy usually pick it straight up and then drop the part into the bucket to avoid getting fuel into my car.

Once this is out, take the 4 screws off the back of the cannister and carefully remove the electrical contacts. the ground you need to pinch a tab to pull it straight up.





the only cutting you will have to do is to cut the flex hose because this bayonette style connector needs to be re used.
once its out stuff it in the new flex hose provided in the kit.





Here is a side by side of the new and old pump, as you can see it has the same style pick up as the factory to prevent pick up issues.



When re assembling make sure you use the super 0 lube on the upper and lower o rings to hold the pump in and that the tube lines up with the tube pick up on the bottom.
carefully snap the cover back on and put the spades onto the pump. positive and negative are both labeled on the pump as well as the connectors being different sizes just like factory to prevent wiring it backwards.
I put the level sender back on and carefully put the float back in first then work it down in the tank and re position everything as needed. making sure the gray tube fits properly into the cannister. This gray tube is from the filter side of the tank, it takes the additional fuel not being used from the bypass valve used to maintain pressure and pours it into the pick up for the main pump. making sure the car never starves for fuel. Thats the beauty of the stock system is that its actually very well designed.
I also used the super o lube on the factory tank seal though in the past its gone in dry with 0 problems just make sure you seat the green cover fully down before turning the lock ring on. as long as the lock ring is snug you will be just fine, no need to beat it to death.

[cct1]

I'm probably, just waiting on one other thing....if I get it, hang on to it, no need to ship it.

[N Tief]

Count me in for fuel pump, filter and seal as long as it is after November 1st. I spent all my parts money this month already.

[cct1]

Colin's gone bigtime as a vendor, he's being hated on, on NAM. Well done!

I'm surprised the RMW link has lasted this long.

[Penis]

The mods probably just haven't caught it yet.


I'm a DICK! Dont like it? Skip this post!

[ColinGreene]

New website is up, http://www.greeneperformance.com
Ill be getting the discount code out for you all now.