Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB

[killerfox]

I got my tap at the local Grainger or you could goto Fastenal. I didn't remove the lower rubber tube, I just removed the upper one and the map sensor then stuffed my 1 1/2 inch shop vac hose down there and sealed the connection with tape. Then tapped the hole. After I was done tapping the hole I left the upper hose disconnected and started the car, gave it a few revs in hopes to blow out anything the vac didn't pickup. I have been driving the car for weeks without issue. You may get a CEL from running the car without the hose on but that is easy to clear.

(09-30-2011 06:57 AM)BostonR56S Wrote:  haha yeah, its been raining here all week, and I don't like doing work on the car at my apartment parking lot, so I wait till my friend is free to use his garage / when i'm at my parents house.
And my ipad failed. I said my brother is 'getting' married this weekend, with a second ceremony next week in hawaii (where shes from). soooo i'll be gone next tuesday for a week =D
So yes, lots of excuses and its definitely taking forever. Usually I'm so ready to install these things in one night and spend as long as necessary. Tapping the ecu and drilling the pipe should be two nights after work. I still need to find a tap.

The instructions say disconnect the hard pipe from the rubber pipe between the nozzle location and fmic. Are any of you getting that done without removing the bumper? I don't think I'm gonna be able to finagle that. I might get it off, but I don't think i'd get it back on..

[Buli]

I disconnected the lower end of the cold pipe from the FMIC. It wasn't too bad. I got the tap from a auto parts store.

[BostonR56S]

You accessed it from the top of the engine bay? If its easy to disconnect from there then i might as well just remove the whole pipe, no? I know theres that one bracket and i think that screw might be a bish but i dont recall as i didn't look closely enough since im not at that step yet.

(09-30-2011 08:47 AM)Buli Wrote:  I disconnected the lower end of the cold pipe from the FMIC. It wasn't too bad. I got the tap from a auto parts store.

[Buli]

No from under the car. There is a triangular splash guard and then it is right there. It was hard for me to get it off, but I wanted to get all of the plastic bits out that I could. There is a bracket half way up that looked hard to unbolt so I didn't.

[RennSport Racing]

My kit's in, seems to be functioning well, with only one thing that I wasn't sure about. The green IDC light that flashes with injector pulse while testing the controller board functionality flashed slower as I depressed the throttle pedal

[Howerton Engineering]

(10-01-2011 07:37 AM)etalj Wrote:  My kit's in, seems to be functioning well, with only one thing that I wasn't sure about. The green IDC light that flashes with injector pulse while testing the controller board functionality flashed slower as I depressed the throttle pedal

I wouldn't worry too much about the LED itself. One test you can do. On the control board there are some test points. If you take a meter and test ground to pin 16, check the voltage there. At idle it should be about .1-.2v roughly, and increase with revs. If the system is coming on and injecting then the signal must be increasing correctly. Are you triggering on MPS or IDC?

[RennSport Racing]

I'll check the voltage at idle tomorrow (I'm quite sick ATM).

The flow rate does change as throttle input changes, however I'm not sure whether I'm triggering on IDC or MPS, I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure it's triggering on IDC. Will let you know via email tomorrow.

(10-01-2011 08:02 AM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  

(10-01-2011 07:37 AM)etalj Wrote:  My kit's in, seems to be functioning well, with only one thing that I wasn't sure about. The green IDC light that flashes with injector pulse while testing the controller board functionality flashed slower as I depressed the throttle pedal

I wouldn't worry too much about the LED itself. One test you can do. On the control board there are some test points. If you take a meter and test ground to pin 16, check the voltage there. At idle it should be about .1-.2v roughly, and increase with revs. If the system is coming on and injecting then the signal must be increasing correctly. Are you triggering on MPS or IDC?

[curv872]

See it?

[Buli]

I finally got the gauge dimming hooked up. What a Pain in the ass. I love the unit except for the dimming circuit. I has issues. I will post a picture of where I tapped of for it tomorrow.
It looks much better dimmed IMO.

[ColinGreene]

I see it because I know what to look for.