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Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
11-13-2011, 07:37 PM
Post: #721
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
(11-13-2011 07:30 PM)etalj Wrote:  Hey Jeff, I've noticed that the system sprays more in the midrange than the top end, is this because the load, and thus the IDC, is higher in the midrange?

Also, what IDC-gain setting do you think would be best for an R56 JCW? I can't get to a dyno or even a track to test out which setting I get most power from. I'm running 50/50, but I'm thinking of running 75/25 on the next tank.

Is it spraying more by the gauge? Some of this is an artifact of the system operation(I can explain if anyone is really interested). There are instances where the spray curve can be a slight hump, this can be tuned out with restrictors, pump pressure etc. Most of the time this is not necessary. Another cause of this on the DI cars is the DC is skewed, its not entirely like a regular FI slope. Because the DI cars spend the bulk of the IDC range between 45 and 65% in the midrange and power region, there is a small area of resolution.

Anyway, without boring everyone with too much tech stuff, what you can do is turn the gain up until the red light(95%) in the controller just starts to come on at redline. This will spread the Aquamist DC out over the narrow band of the DI fuel injectors. After this you can adjust jetting according to the fluid you will run, and fine tune the gain according to the tuning needs.

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11-13-2011, 07:43 PM
Post: #722
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
Yes, all my readings of flow come from the gauge. Would you like me to video tape the gauge operation through a 3rd gear run to redline?

(11-13-2011 07:37 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  Is it spraying more by the gauge? Some of this is an artifact of the system operation(I can explain if anyone is really interested). There are instances where the spray curve can be a slight hump, this can be tuned out with restrictors, pump pressure etc. Most of the time this is not necessary. Another cause of this on the DI cars is the DC is skewed, its not entirely like a regular FI slope. Because the DI cars spend the bulk of the IDC range between 45 and 65% in the midrange and power region, there is a small area of resolution.

Anyway, without boring everyone with too much tech stuff, what you can do is turn the gain up until the red light(95%) in the controller just starts to come on at redline. This will spread the Aquamist DC out over the narrow band of the DI fuel injectors. After this you can adjust jetting according to the fluid you will run, and fine tune the gain according to the tuning needs.
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11-13-2011, 07:45 PM
Post: #723
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
(11-13-2011 07:43 PM)etalj Wrote:  Yes, all my readings of flow come from the gauge. Would you like me to video tape the gauge operation through a 3rd gear run to redline?

(11-13-2011 07:37 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  Is it spraying more by the gauge? Some of this is an artifact of the system operation(I can explain if anyone is really interested). There are instances where the spray curve can be a slight hump, this can be tuned out with restrictors, pump pressure etc. Most of the time this is not necessary. Another cause of this on the DI cars is the DC is skewed, its not entirely like a regular FI slope. Because the DI cars spend the bulk of the IDC range between 45 and 65% in the midrange and power region, there is a small area of resolution.

Anyway, without boring everyone with too much tech stuff, what you can do is turn the gain up until the red light(95%) in the controller just starts to come on at redline. This will spread the Aquamist DC out over the narrow band of the DI fuel injectors. After this you can adjust jetting according to the fluid you will run, and fine tune the gain according to the tuning needs.

You don't have to tape it, is it going up to 6 bars then tapering to 4 or something similar?

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11-13-2011, 07:47 PM
Post: #724
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
Yeah, as far as I can remember. I haven't driven it hard for a week or two. My car's up on stands atm, just tinkering with the front suspension a bit. It definitely runs to six bars in the midrange.

Is the one bar of flow during overrun situations normal?

(11-13-2011 07:45 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  
(11-13-2011 07:43 PM)etalj Wrote:  Yes, all my readings of flow come from the gauge. Would you like me to video tape the gauge operation through a 3rd gear run to redline?

(11-13-2011 07:37 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  Is it spraying more by the gauge? Some of this is an artifact of the system operation(I can explain if anyone is really interested). There are instances where the spray curve can be a slight hump, this can be tuned out with restrictors, pump pressure etc. Most of the time this is not necessary. Another cause of this on the DI cars is the DC is skewed, its not entirely like a regular FI slope. Because the DI cars spend the bulk of the IDC range between 45 and 65% in the midrange and power region, there is a small area of resolution.

Anyway, without boring everyone with too much tech stuff, what you can do is turn the gain up until the red light(95%) in the controller just starts to come on at redline. This will spread the Aquamist DC out over the narrow band of the DI fuel injectors. After this you can adjust jetting according to the fluid you will run, and fine tune the gain according to the tuning needs.

You don't have to tape it, is it going up to 6 bars then tapering to 4 or something similar?
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11-13-2011, 07:58 PM
Post: #725
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
Remember that these cars will run more boost midrange and taper some towards the top

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11-13-2011, 08:00 PM
Post: #726
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
(11-13-2011 07:47 PM)etalj Wrote:  Yeah, as far as I can remember. I haven't driven it hard for a week or two. My car's up on stands atm, just tinkering with the front suspension a bit. It definitely runs to six bars in the midrange.

Is the one bar of flow during overrun situations normal?

(11-13-2011 07:45 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  
(11-13-2011 07:43 PM)etalj Wrote:  Yes, all my readings of flow come from the gauge. Would you like me to video tape the gauge operation through a 3rd gear run to redline?

(11-13-2011 07:37 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  Is it spraying more by the gauge? Some of this is an artifact of the system operation(I can explain if anyone is really interested). There are instances where the spray curve can be a slight hump, this can be tuned out with restrictors, pump pressure etc. Most of the time this is not necessary. Another cause of this on the DI cars is the DC is skewed, its not entirely like a regular FI slope. Because the DI cars spend the bulk of the IDC range between 45 and 65% in the midrange and power region, there is a small area of resolution.

Anyway, without boring everyone with too much tech stuff, what you can do is turn the gain up until the red light(95%) in the controller just starts to come on at redline. This will spread the Aquamist DC out over the narrow band of the DI fuel injectors. After this you can adjust jetting according to the fluid you will run, and fine tune the gain according to the tuning needs.

You don't have to tape it, is it going up to 6 bars then tapering to 4 or something similar?

Is the system injecting when the one bar is shown? Is the yellow light in the controller on? I have seen this happen on a few DI cars, the 335 also. Sometimes depending on the THRES settings the IDC does funny stuff on the DI cars on lifting. If you are triggering on IDC and have it set lower, this is a known affect. You can switch the system to trigger by MAP(as long as you connected the blue wire to the ECU) and you can eliminate this if a problem.

As for the bar reading, this has to do with the system install and the way the flow sensor and pulsing valve interact. When the tubing length, jet size and IDC all meet a certain criteria, the FS can see a higher reading in the midrange, this has also occurred on normal FI cars too. Changing restrictors, the length of tubing from FAV to jet and jet size all affect it. Let me ask, is your flow sensor before of after the FAV? We recent changed the FS to before the FAV for various reasons, but there is no right and wrong. If I have a few pictures of your install and setting you are running we can play with it.

One thing to keep in mind, not directed towards you but the forum, is the gauge was never designed to be an absolute reading. It was designed, and the electronics are skewed to make it the most effective failsafe possible. Because of this, the gauge may not read linearly, and cannot be used for absolute flow. For example, if you have a jet that flows 500cc, and you adjust the gauge to read 5 bars in test at 100% flow, each bar will not be 100cc. There are years of development, feedback and fine tuning to make it work as a very good faisalfe, not absolute gauge.

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11-13-2011, 08:15 PM (This post was last modified: 11-13-2011 08:16 PM by BostonR56S.)
Post: #727
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
Edit. I see I've missed other posts lol

Also, I get the one bar on overrun too sometimes. Stays on for up to a few seconds. Wonder if this is normal.

'08 R56S DS/B | RMW Dynotuned | Aquamist HFS-3 | Helix FMIC | Riss Racing Catless DP | Custom 2.5" Magnaflow | AEM Dryflow | Konig Feathers | Mach V Springs | Bilstein Struts | GT Spec SB | Eibach RSB | + Lots More |
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11-13-2011, 08:41 PM
Post: #728
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
For the guys seeing the 1 bar on overrun, are you triggering on IDC and what is the threshold set at?

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11-13-2011, 08:44 PM
Post: #729
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
yes on IDC and THRES at 11:45, just a hair left of default

'08 R56S DS/B | RMW Dynotuned | Aquamist HFS-3 | Helix FMIC | Riss Racing Catless DP | Custom 2.5" Magnaflow | AEM Dryflow | Konig Feathers | Mach V Springs | Bilstein Struts | GT Spec SB | Eibach RSB | + Lots More |
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11-13-2011, 08:49 PM
Post: #730
RE: Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB
(11-13-2011 08:44 PM)BostonR56S Wrote:  yes on IDC and THRES at 11:45, just a hair left of default

If you hooked up the blue wire, you can try moving the jumper from IDC to MPS, and then re-adjust the thereshold to where you want. These small turbo cars build boost so quick I don't think you would notice a significant difference. Make sure the yellow light in the controller is on during this 1 bar overrun, if possible before you change anything.

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