Aquamist HFS-3 and MINI Tank GB

[ThumperGP]

(10-04-2011 05:08 PM)09JCW Wrote:  Has anyone dynoed or plan to dyno with Aquamist on and Aquamist off to show performance gains if any for this system. I think someone showed an after dyno but I would like to see a before and after dyno (Aquamist on and Aquamist off) with any state of tune be it custom, canned or stock.

It seems like from reading the posts in this thread and the problems that are being reported that this must be a difficult DIY project and I am quessing it is taking between 6-10 hours or more for most DIY installers.

Well all I know is that it does not loose power, and it for sure as hell feels like it adds power (the car has never ran so strong...I think the others that have installed it can say the same). Even if it added 0 hp though....I'd still say its worth every penny, knowing that the motor is just that little bit safer. I've said it before, the power it adds is merely a side bonus to me. Not really a fair comparison, but I do know that after meth, my recent dyno run made more torque and about the same hp as the last time I was on a dyno (without meth), but using a much weaker tune and about 40 degree hotter ambient temps. Make of that what you want...

I thought about doing a dyno run with it off and a run with it on, but to be completely honest, I cringe at the thought of even running this car without meth now, one blown motor is enough. Plus the way that the R56 ECU adapts to it, I don't think the full gain would even show between the two runs. It's really amazing how great it [the R56] can adjust fuel trims and timing for it though....its flawless.

As far as install....it took me a while because I took my time and figured everything out as I went along, but there is nothing inherently difficult about it. Now that I know what to do, I could get a kit on in no time.

[silhouette88]

(10-04-2011 08:38 PM)ThumperMCS Wrote:  ...I cringe at the thought of even running this car without meth now, one blown motor is enough.

Shhhhh, don't tell that to the Sprintex / Mynes crowd. I think that's their rite of passage.

(10-04-2011 08:38 PM)ThumperMCS Wrote:  Plus the way that the R56 ECU adapts to it, I don't think the full gain would even show between the two runs. It's really amazing how great it [the R56] can adjust fuel trims and timing for it though....its flawless.

And you don't even have the jet installed before the T-MAP sensor. I wonder how different things would be if you moved it? I wonder how much it matters on the 56?

[Howerton Engineering]

If you know how the ECU's works, it definitely matters.

[silhouette88]

(10-04-2011 09:10 PM)Howerton Engineering Wrote:  If you know how the ECU's works, it definitely matters.

well I'm glad the expert installed mine then.

[RennSport Racing]

(10-04-2011 06:04 AM)Buli Wrote:  

(10-04-2011 12:04 AM)etalj Wrote:  My wheel speed sensor is throwing a fault now (even though the actual sensors are fine). I think it's the ecu tapping I did.

If you wired the "optional" boost cut, as I did
move the jumper from DR0 to DR1 and leave it that way always
Then move the jumper from DHB to DFS during setup and testing.
Move back when you have it all working and want to enable the failsafe.

Edit: Failed reading comprehension, too early no coffee.

I didn't wire the wastegate failsafe

(10-04-2011 08:59 AM)BostonR56S Wrote:  

(10-04-2011 12:04 AM)etalj Wrote:  My wheel speed sensor is throwing a fault now (even though the actual sensors are fine). I think it's the ecu tapping I did.

Are you lowered? I know lowering caused something to rub against my speed sensor wire exposing the wires. When it rained, all my abs/brake/etc lights lit up on the dash. taped it up and zip tied it out of the way, been OK since. I know you said the sensor is fine, but just double check the wire coming off of it in the wheel well i suppse if you havent.

I'm getting a bit worried, everyone seems to have "random" issues occuring coincidently after tapping their ECU. =\

I'm lowered, but the issue only started after the water/meth install. I'm sure it has something to do with the install, as I checked the wheel speed sensors, and they aren't fouling on anything.

Pretty bummed tbh

[Buli]

(10-05-2011 01:37 AM)etalj Wrote:  

(10-04-2011 06:04 AM)Buli Wrote:  

(10-04-2011 12:04 AM)etalj Wrote:  My wheel speed sensor is throwing a fault now (even though the actual sensors are fine). I think it's the ecu tapping I did.

If you wired the "optional" boost cut, as I did
move the jumper from DR0 to DR1 and leave it that way always
Then move the jumper from DHB to DFS during setup and testing.
Move back when you have it all working and want to enable the failsafe.

Edit: Failed reading comprehension, too early no coffee.

I didn't wire the wastegate failsafe

(10-04-2011 08:59 AM)BostonR56S Wrote:  

(10-04-2011 12:04 AM)etalj Wrote:  My wheel speed sensor is throwing a fault now (even though the actual sensors are fine). I think it's the ecu tapping I did.

Are you lowered? I know lowering caused something to rub against my speed sensor wire exposing the wires. When it rained, all my abs/brake/etc lights lit up on the dash. taped it up and zip tied it out of the way, been OK since. I know you said the sensor is fine, but just double check the wire coming off of it in the wheel well i suppse if you havent.

I'm getting a bit worried, everyone seems to have "random" issues occuring coincidently after tapping their ECU. =\

I'm lowered, but the issue only started after the water/meth install. I'm sure it has something to do with the install, as I checked the wheel speed sensors, and they aren't fouling on anything.

Pretty bummed tbh

To ease your mind about the install go and look at the ECU wiring you did. Make sure it is right. If it is wrong then you found your problem. If it is right then you can move on to troubleshooting somewhere else.

What other then the install happened right before the wheel code?
Good luck.

---

(10-04-2011 05:08 PM)09JCW Wrote:  Has anyone dynoed or plan to dyno with Aquamist on and Aquamist off to show performance gains if any for this system. I think someone showed an after dyno but I would like to see a before and after dyno (Aquamist on and Aquamist off) with any state of tune be it custom, canned or stock.

It seems like from reading the posts in this thread and the problems that are being reported that this must be a difficult DIY project and I am quessing it is taking between 6-10 hours or more for most DIY installers.

I haven't dynoed, but it is more power for sure. More power with added safety equal a win win. It was a long install but I tried to make sure I did the very best I could. I hate going back to redo poor workmanship. If you work on your car and are not color blind you can do the install. I highly recommend the kit.

[RennSport Racing]

@Buli

Thanks bud.

Yeah maybe I'll double check the wiring. Nothing that I can think of happened before the wheel code, other than the install.

[Buli]

(10-05-2011 05:45 AM)etalj Wrote:  @Buli

Thanks bud.

Yeah maybe I'll double check the wiring. Nothing that I can think of happened before the wheel code, other than the install.

YW

Hey what fuse did you pull for the add a fuse? Did you put two fuses in it?

[RennSport Racing]

Didnt use an add a fuse, ran 12V from cigarette lighter and illumination off sport button.

[killerfox]

I will be taking my car to dyno at 10am tomorrow, hope for some good numbers.